The Deer (dear) Hunter

From Drumnadrochit, back up into the forest (all the way up) where I spotted 6 young red deer stags grazing. Later on in the day, I also spotted a roe deer. Mum is very pleased with me and calls me The Deer Hunter. She also asked me to keep my eyes peeled for; otter, wild cat, red squirrel and polecats. Honestly, some people are never satisfied.

Shortly after leaving Drum, we had a brief glimpse of the Loch, and the ruins of Urquart Castle nestled on a promontory near the village.

We walked up to the Eco Center at Abriachan Forest. This is a forest purchased by the village of Abriachan, and they have developed the Eco Center for the benefit of local children to teach them all things natural, and indeed, there was a school present when we got there.

This is where we left the GGW to wend it's merry way down to Inverness whilst we turn northwards for Beauly. It is perhaps an appropriate time to thank the GGW and all the other ways we have used along the route. They have contributed hugely, saving us many hours of research and negating the necessity to be constantly referring to maps. Now we're back on Chippy's Tours until we reach the final destination.

In addition to leaving the Way, we are also leaving behind the last of our forest walks. This afternoon we have had a lovely walk off the top, mainly on road but through some very pretty countryside. We passed some highland cattle who's fringes were nearly as long as mum's. Her hair is nearly down to her ankles and she has completely lost control of it.

We passed a Writer's Centre, presumably where people go to write. And we were passed by 19 Dutch Ferraris out on tour.

They decided to walk through Lovat Bridge and on to Beauly where we will overnight prior to walking on to Dingwall tomorrow.

Keep spreading the word.

M
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Monstrous talk

We leave our caravan in the woods and the very kind hospitality of Duncan and Yvonne. We did not hear the patter of tiny feet, but we did have an excellent three course dinner last night and some fascinating insights into life beside Loch Ness.

The bungalow is exactly opposite where the main Nessie sighting was made. Duncan tells the tale of one night when he was out fishing on the Lochside when out of the water reared a huge and roaring beast. You can imagine he turned tale and ran home and Yvonne says he was having palpitations for over a week. The next mornining he went down to check and found some large deer prints. Apparently when deer are being stalked on the other side of the loch, they quite often take to the water and swim to the other side. Duncan is convinced that this is what had happened, but what I would like to know is ....what do Nessie footprints look like? Ummm.

Apparently, if, as often happens, anybody is looking to undertake a monster themed scam on the Loch they must ask permmission of the police, so that any chance of road disruption can be avoided. Who should they refer to to? The Monster Officer of course. Absolutely true.

Our walk today was back up into the woods, right up to the top, where we did actually have some views of the loch. After nearly three days of walking through dense woodland it was a relief to walk the last 5 miles on roads through open countryside.

On the way we came across two gardens with splendid tree houses in course of erection about 100yds apart. A bit of competition maybe?

We have landed up in Drumnadrochit, known locally, as Drum - don't blame 'em! where ther are 2 visitor centres both concentrated on Nessie, and both claiming to be the official version. This was the subject of a very expensive court case in recent years following which a compromise was reached - they're both still there. Mum was going to go and have a look round one of them, but claimed to be Nessie'd up and relaxed instead.

Tomorrow, we will be leaving the GGW and heading north at last (again - last said that at Bath) making for Lovat Bridge.

Keep spreading the word.

M
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Nessie rides again

Of course they had to have a little play round the lochs before we left, especially as the road bridge was opening as we came down the road.

We have referred, in the past, to alternative uses for redundant phone boxes amongst which have been; village libraries, art galleries, information centres and a historical society exhibition. Today we have encountered a fresh approach - a greenhouse! I'm not sure where the box has come from becaiuse as far as we can see all Scotland's phone boxes appear to be in good working order.

A little further on, we met Scrumpy, a 14 week old Labrador pup, who was just a delight and such a good boy.

On with the Great Glen Way then. Today's walk has been beside Loch Ness although we have actually been in dense forest nearly all day and have seen very little of the water. This has been particularly frustrating for mum who has been adamant since we started on our little adventure, that she was going to be the first person to spot the monster in 50 odd years. Now we all know that the monster is amphibious, but what you may not realise is that it lives on the hill, in the forest beside the loch. It is huge, I mean massive. It's green, roars, churns out smoke, and eats trees. Men called foresters chop down the trees to appease the monster and leave them in neat stacks so that it can feast with relative ease. It also eats people and we could see one waving from inside its eye, trying to get out.

This all came about because we came to a sign in the forest warning of felling operations which could cause certain death and recommending that we use the diversion that somebody had already told us, went all the way down to the bottom of the forest, along the very scary A82, and all the way back up the hill we had only just come down. Of course the Dynamic Duo decided this was a complete waste of time, and that they would stick with the path. There were huge stacks of logs for the monster everywhere,  and at one point he came roaring up behind us, and we ran.

A little further on we came round a corner on the hill into a small clearing, to find a helicopter parked (as you do). Dad decided it was a good photo opportunity and dragged me in front of it, only to find that it was full of men in orange coats, eating sandwiches. Mum's convinced it was just a glorified chuck wagon, but they reckoned it was taking stone up to the top of the hill where the GGW is shortly due to be re-routed. Thank goodness we're not doing this walk next year.

We lunched at Invermoriston at a small road side cafe on the Skye Road. If anybody's going that way, the food is all home produced and of excellent quality. Fortunately we were between showers because, guess what, we weren't allowed in.

This afternoon, in the middle of the forest, we came across the 'Stone Cave' said to have been built to offer shelter to a washerwoman on her frequent journeys between Altsaigh and Invermoriston.

Destination tonight is Altsaigh, where, I think I mentioned, we are in a caravan just on the edge of the forest. We are reliably informed that if we hear noises on the roof in the night it will probably be pine marten or red squirrels. That's all right then!!

Drumnadrochit tomorrow.

Keep spreading the word.

M
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How 'fortful'

In the wee small hours, mum and I were awoken by a glaring light flashing in our eyes. Briefly we thought we were under interrogation, but no, only dad being thoughtful using his mobile phone torch to find his way around instead of putting the light on. How thoughtful. This was particularly onerous for mum who is still suffering from a dollop of voltarol lingering on her finger in one eye, and rivulets of super duper midge repellant dripping into the other. Mum is now a walking midge repellant, although the midges don't seem to have been told! We are advised that Avon do a good product that co-incidentally acts as a repellant which the commandos recommend. Not too many commandos or Avon representatives in the middle of the Scottish Highlands!

Today we have had an enjoyable Sunday saunter to Fort Augustus. We started off walking down the side of Loch Oich but didn't see too much of it for woodland, even though we were rarely more than 20' away from the loch side. Then we moved on to walk alongside the canal. This was much more open and gave us some more scenery to look at. A pleasant if slightly cloudy day, not quite as hot as yesterday, and more pleasant for it. Mum and I don't do hot.

We have crossed a number of swing bridges that carry the A82 across the canal, all manned during the day, and apart from the one in Fort Augustus, seemingly rarely active.

As we got closer to FA we saw a number of craft coming through from Inverness, and it's surprising how many non-UK boats there were. It's rather a tourist hotspot in the town, and here too, the Scottish tourist board has done an amazing job on attracting a worldwide audience.

You will recall, I am sure, the incedent of the defective key, and dad's subsequent 'escape' in Glencoe. Well mum and I knew that his face went purple as he was squeezing through the window, what we hadn't realised, was that he had also incurred a massive bruise across his stomach where he got stuck. Of course, by now it has turned all the colours of the rainbow. No wonder he has been complaining about a pain when he secures his rucksack belt! Bless.

Tomorrow, we move on to Altsigh where we are to have a new accommodation experience on the trip. We have a caravan for the night. That's because, yet again, we have had difficulty in finding somewhere to accept me. You know a girl could get a complex.

Keep spreading the word

M
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Big Ben

It's remiss of me, but I have failed to mention the indomitable presence of Scotland's highest mountain, Ben Nevis, who has now been overlooking us for 6 days since we had our first peep when we were in Glencoe getting stuck in windows and stuff! He has a lot more snow on this side and our hosts were telling us this morning that when we had all our floods down south, they had more snow on the peaks for many a year.

Last nights accommodation was at The Old Pines, a sort of large ski lodge that calls itself a restaurant with rooms. For sure the food was excellent and the rooms were good too. The views everywhere, particularly in the dining room, were incredible.

Fortunately they provided all the bits and pieces, for we have treated ourselves to a bag carrier this week and yesterday was the day it chose to go AWOL. Ideally the carriers get the bag to you by 4.00pm, so when by 5.15 it still hadn't arrived, dad gave the chap a call. It turned out he had it on his schedule for today. To give him his due he promised to get it to us within 30 minutes...and do you know what? He did!

In the meantime, mum, who has been trying to crawl back on the wagon, following her birthday, and had promised herself a dry night, reneged, and had a medicinal gin and tonic. They both had showers and redressed, dad remained calm, and I ate my Burns.

Today we have had the intermittent company of Loch Lochy. I say intermittent, because we have walked through an adjacent forest, that has kept us to and fro with the loch shore. It has been very hot today creating a wonderful aroma of pine, and the loch has tantalised with its shimmering clear waters. There are warnings everywhere about not swimming in the lochs because, apparently the water temperature only alters by 2' year round. Doesn't stop them chucking me in though!!

Once more we have seen many signs of pine martens, some of them quite potent (mum has a book about these things!) but have not had a clear sighting. The Scottish wildlife is being a tad reticent at making itself apparent.

At lunch time we sat in the forest and ate the lunch prepared for us by Old Pines, and just as we were about to set off again, a gentleman passed us - grey hair, beard, glasses. "Are you John?" Says dad. Well mum nearly fell over. She had been talking to some folk back in Kinlochleven, who had told her about John as he too is walking LEJOG. She had told dad, and not only was he listening, but he also remembered.

Anyway he was John, from York, and he is making excellent progress, but then he hasn't got a mum and a Madge impeding his progress! A little later we were joined by Stuart, who has taken a 12 month Sabbatical, to walk. The plan is no plan!

North Laggan tonight then, and Fort Augustus tomorrow (I can feel another history lesson coming forth!) alongside Loch Oich and latterly the Caledonian Canal.

Keep spreading the word.

M
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The Way out of Fort William

Off we go again with all the gear washed, repaired, replaced, whatever. A second parcel has been despatched home, as we seek to lessen our load, following which dad found the hotel key in his pocket and had to scamper back with it.

Down to the remains of the old fort after which the town was named by its perpetrator, William of Orange, who wanted to quell any rebellious thoughts in the area. Here begins the Great Glen Way that follows the line of the Great Glen Fault a natural geological phenomenon that forms a navigable waterway between Fort William and Inverness. Partly river, partly loch and partly canal.

Today's walk takes us to Gairlochy and after negotiating the outskirts of FW we eventually joined the canal at he bottom of Neptunes Staircase a series of 8 lochs that raises and lowers craft from sea level to the level of  the ongoing waterway. At the base of the staircase runs a main road and a railway which both have swing bridges to allow boats to pass through. A fascinating combination, and mum was thrilled to get a picture of dad and I watching boats passing through the lochs at the same time as the Jacobite steam train (runs from FW to Mallaig) was going through. Admittedly, she was precariously balanced on one leg on a tree stump at the time....all in pursuit of art as they say.

Halfway up the lochs was a small building selling coffee and tea. It is also  the nerve centre for Caledonian Bears (google them).These bears are just delightful, made of tweed, and clothed in some wonderful outfits, also made of tweed. All hand made, and whilst we sat on the wall to drink our coffee in the sunshine, the lady continued to finish off bears. I was given some treats for which thank you, and thank you also for your contribution to our funds.

Thankfully, although the GGW is popular it is nowhere near as busy as the WHW and we have been able to thoroughly enjoy a walk through some absolutely stunning scenery, on a delightful early summer day, and with the additional entertainment provided by the water traffic.

This afternoon, we came to another swing bridge at Moy Bridge where a loan British Waterways operative; maintains the grass, keeps all the 'furniture' painted, and closes the bridge for the occasional passing farm traffic, opening it afterwards to allow the boats access. He was very friendly and even allowed mum to use his facilities for which she was hugely grateful. Does make you wonder about the economics though?

We have met some lovely people today who have been most interested in our little adventure. Tonight, we are spending the night near Spean Bridge, home to the Commando Memorial.

Laggan tomorrow.

Keep spreading the word.

M
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The meeting of the ways

I know we don't normally go to press on a rest day, but we think you've been short changed a bit this week, and as yesterday's post was mainly about their capers with the window, we thought we would give you a short update.

Yesterday, we completed the West Highland Way, by walking into Fort William, and what a splendid walk it has been - comes fully recommended by mum and me, although dad's not over keen. Anyway, definitely one off the tic list (and yes I have kicked off the kicking K deliberately [one for the pedants amongst you]). Dad had to 'operate' 12 times on me and one on himself. Mum got away with it although the midges adore the flavour of her.

Fran had dinner with us last night, and joined us for coffee this morning before heading back to Killin. It's been lovely to see her and so kind of her to make the journey.

Today we have been doing all our usual jobs and have been able to get everything we need for our next stage to Dingwall. Sadly, ma and pa have made a start on the arrangements for our return journey, part of which was the train tickets. But first of all, mum was a very brave girl and went to get her Senior Railcard. Having carried her driving licence all the way from Derbyshire, you can imagine she was more than  a little upset that they didn't ask for proof of age. Did they really think she looked 60+?! Dad said not - a very wise man my dad.

And guess who's lost his?!

Tomorrow we start our last 'way' on the Great Glen Way which heads from Fort William, up the Caledonian Canal to Inverness. After that we shall be flying Freestyle up to John O Groats and the end of our fabulous journey.

We suspect that communication may become more difficult now, but don't worry we will make posts as and where we can so be prepared for any time any where.

Keep spreading the word.

M
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