Big Ben

It's remiss of me, but I have failed to mention the indomitable presence of Scotland's highest mountain, Ben Nevis, who has now been overlooking us for 6 days since we had our first peep when we were in Glencoe getting stuck in windows and stuff! He has a lot more snow on this side and our hosts were telling us this morning that when we had all our floods down south, they had more snow on the peaks for many a year.

Last nights accommodation was at The Old Pines, a sort of large ski lodge that calls itself a restaurant with rooms. For sure the food was excellent and the rooms were good too. The views everywhere, particularly in the dining room, were incredible.

Fortunately they provided all the bits and pieces, for we have treated ourselves to a bag carrier this week and yesterday was the day it chose to go AWOL. Ideally the carriers get the bag to you by 4.00pm, so when by 5.15 it still hadn't arrived, dad gave the chap a call. It turned out he had it on his schedule for today. To give him his due he promised to get it to us within 30 minutes...and do you know what? He did!

In the meantime, mum, who has been trying to crawl back on the wagon, following her birthday, and had promised herself a dry night, reneged, and had a medicinal gin and tonic. They both had showers and redressed, dad remained calm, and I ate my Burns.

Today we have had the intermittent company of Loch Lochy. I say intermittent, because we have walked through an adjacent forest, that has kept us to and fro with the loch shore. It has been very hot today creating a wonderful aroma of pine, and the loch has tantalised with its shimmering clear waters. There are warnings everywhere about not swimming in the lochs because, apparently the water temperature only alters by 2' year round. Doesn't stop them chucking me in though!!

Once more we have seen many signs of pine martens, some of them quite potent (mum has a book about these things!) but have not had a clear sighting. The Scottish wildlife is being a tad reticent at making itself apparent.

At lunch time we sat in the forest and ate the lunch prepared for us by Old Pines, and just as we were about to set off again, a gentleman passed us - grey hair, beard, glasses. "Are you John?" Says dad. Well mum nearly fell over. She had been talking to some folk back in Kinlochleven, who had told her about John as he too is walking LEJOG. She had told dad, and not only was he listening, but he also remembered.

Anyway he was John, from York, and he is making excellent progress, but then he hasn't got a mum and a Madge impeding his progress! A little later we were joined by Stuart, who has taken a 12 month Sabbatical, to walk. The plan is no plan!

North Laggan tonight then, and Fort Augustus tomorrow (I can feel another history lesson coming forth!) alongside Loch Oich and latterly the Caledonian Canal.

Keep spreading the word.

M
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The Way out of Fort William

Off we go again with all the gear washed, repaired, replaced, whatever. A second parcel has been despatched home, as we seek to lessen our load, following which dad found the hotel key in his pocket and had to scamper back with it.

Down to the remains of the old fort after which the town was named by its perpetrator, William of Orange, who wanted to quell any rebellious thoughts in the area. Here begins the Great Glen Way that follows the line of the Great Glen Fault a natural geological phenomenon that forms a navigable waterway between Fort William and Inverness. Partly river, partly loch and partly canal.

Today's walk takes us to Gairlochy and after negotiating the outskirts of FW we eventually joined the canal at he bottom of Neptunes Staircase a series of 8 lochs that raises and lowers craft from sea level to the level of  the ongoing waterway. At the base of the staircase runs a main road and a railway which both have swing bridges to allow boats to pass through. A fascinating combination, and mum was thrilled to get a picture of dad and I watching boats passing through the lochs at the same time as the Jacobite steam train (runs from FW to Mallaig) was going through. Admittedly, she was precariously balanced on one leg on a tree stump at the time....all in pursuit of art as they say.

Halfway up the lochs was a small building selling coffee and tea. It is also  the nerve centre for Caledonian Bears (google them).These bears are just delightful, made of tweed, and clothed in some wonderful outfits, also made of tweed. All hand made, and whilst we sat on the wall to drink our coffee in the sunshine, the lady continued to finish off bears. I was given some treats for which thank you, and thank you also for your contribution to our funds.

Thankfully, although the GGW is popular it is nowhere near as busy as the WHW and we have been able to thoroughly enjoy a walk through some absolutely stunning scenery, on a delightful early summer day, and with the additional entertainment provided by the water traffic.

This afternoon, we came to another swing bridge at Moy Bridge where a loan British Waterways operative; maintains the grass, keeps all the 'furniture' painted, and closes the bridge for the occasional passing farm traffic, opening it afterwards to allow the boats access. He was very friendly and even allowed mum to use his facilities for which she was hugely grateful. Does make you wonder about the economics though?

We have met some lovely people today who have been most interested in our little adventure. Tonight, we are spending the night near Spean Bridge, home to the Commando Memorial.

Laggan tomorrow.

Keep spreading the word.

M
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The meeting of the ways

I know we don't normally go to press on a rest day, but we think you've been short changed a bit this week, and as yesterday's post was mainly about their capers with the window, we thought we would give you a short update.

Yesterday, we completed the West Highland Way, by walking into Fort William, and what a splendid walk it has been - comes fully recommended by mum and me, although dad's not over keen. Anyway, definitely one off the tic list (and yes I have kicked off the kicking K deliberately [one for the pedants amongst you]). Dad had to 'operate' 12 times on me and one on himself. Mum got away with it although the midges adore the flavour of her.

Fran had dinner with us last night, and joined us for coffee this morning before heading back to Killin. It's been lovely to see her and so kind of her to make the journey.

Today we have been doing all our usual jobs and have been able to get everything we need for our next stage to Dingwall. Sadly, ma and pa have made a start on the arrangements for our return journey, part of which was the train tickets. But first of all, mum was a very brave girl and went to get her Senior Railcard. Having carried her driving licence all the way from Derbyshire, you can imagine she was more than  a little upset that they didn't ask for proof of age. Did they really think she looked 60+?! Dad said not - a very wise man my dad.

And guess who's lost his?!

Tomorrow we start our last 'way' on the Great Glen Way which heads from Fort William, up the Caledonian Canal to Inverness. After that we shall be flying Freestyle up to John O Groats and the end of our fabulous journey.

We suspect that communication may become more difficult now, but don't worry we will make posts as and where we can so be prepared for any time any where.

Keep spreading the word.

M
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Windows of the mind!

To pick up where we left off.

Good night at the ski centre, the cafe became a bar and there was a very pleasant atmosphere amongst those staying - mainly WHW walkers. We had a wander round and mum spotted a mountain hare in his summer colours which she had to admit put the Peak District specimens to shame. It was enormous - at least 6' high!

At 06.45 they were lying in bed congratulating themselves on getting right through the night without a Tryst with the plumbing. Dad was first to move, turned the key in the lock, nothing doing. Mum tried. I tried. For 45 minutes we tried and we couldn't get out. By now we were getting desperate - all of us. The decision was between smashing the door in or cutting the mosquito mesh and climbing through the window. So they selected the latter. He looked at her, she looked at him,and physically, they (dad) decided there wasn't much in it. So......dad got himself on the bed on all fours. Mum held the window 2' square and on a pivot that brought the height down to about 18". There was a big drop so he needed to go out backwards. Left leg up, right leg up...heave....stop - he's stuck (Winnie the Pooh springs to mind) he's stuck. Mum eyed up her camera (she was holding the window so he didn't lose his head) within reach with a nifty snick of the foot, but thought better of it. The blockage was his belt. Back in. Belt off. And out he went, key in the outside, no problem, just a fight for the door between me and mum.

Fabulous walk up the Devils Staircase over to Kinlochleven, amazing views. The village was Established by Alcan to produce aluminium under hydro power. It closed in 2000 decimating the village which is now held up by the Economy produced by the WHW.

Today has been an incredible walk. Up a reasonable hill and then the most amazing walk through the basin provided by several hills over to Fort William. We have seen 3 Golden Eagles - what an incredible bird they are. Three miles out, we met up with Fran who had made it up the hill to meet us and walk us in. Thanks so much Fran.

So we made it to Fort William, where there was a parcel from Sal, and of course, one for me from those fabulous people at Burns. So, Rest day tomorrow, and probably a bit more about the last 3 days.

V. Tired - night night

Keep spreading the word.

M

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10,000 hits!!

Well done everybody, today we reached 10,000 hits on the blog - isn't that just amazing?

Bridge of Orchy Hotel served us well and turned out to be the stopping point for many WHW's. This morning saw a reinsurgence of the midges, and within a very short period, dad was sporting a fine graveyard on his nice shiny forehead.

Up the hill and through a small forest to reach Inveroran where we met Vereena from Germany, who was over here just for the walk with her freind who had damaged her shoulder. She was kind enough to notch down a gear so that my old folks could keep pace with her for about half a mile until we joined a Telford Parliamentary Road that would take us over Rannoch Moor.

The Moor, which is not the most hospitable of places, is home to the most remote point on the WHW and is also where the brother of Ian Fleming (writer of the James Bond novels) died. There is a cairn to mark the spot on top of the Moor.

Disappointingly, there is not much to report on the wildlife front. More cuckoo sound, yet another dead red deer and a water vole scurrying in to the River Bank.

Yet again we have been so lucky with the weather. Although we had a little rain towards the end, it was quite light and we did not lose visibility, so often a problem on the Moor and perpetrator of so many rescue efforts!

We arrived at the Glencoe Ski Centre in good time, where we have a hobbit for the night (same again, slightly different shape, same principal). After lunch, the parents planned to go up the mountain on the chairlift, but the weather was not conducive.

Dad has been suffering severe withdrawal symptoms from his maps - more cold shoulder, than cold turkey, but thankfully, that situation will be resolved tomorrow, when he will be reunited with his library.

Think it might be family movie night tonight. Not sure what mum's got tucked away, tell you tomorrow (bet you can't wait).

Up the infamous Devil's Staircase tomorrow.....every bit as bad as it sounds, en route to Kinlochleven.

Keep spreading the word.

M
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Yesterday's pics - just in cas

A bridge too far? No way!

We had a wonderful evening at Kevin and Linda's who very kindly hosted and provided a great dinner, with our first joined up food for a long time. Well theirs, of course I've been having mine all the way through. As well as Fran we had the company of John and Jennifer and the five of them joined us today. Thanks for your company all.

Our 'trekker hut' (same principal, slightly different facilities) afforded good accommodation and after a decent nights sleep we woke to some light rain and the prospect of breakfast at The Green Welly.

The Green Welly is a petrol station that has grown into a tourist attraction, with restaurant, snack bar and gift shops, now on the tourism route, and visited by coaches. They provided a good breakfast, and with a happy dad, we set off up the hill to cross the the border into Argyle and Bute.

Many thanks to the Ward family from Sheffield for their contribution.

The climb was relatively minor, and soon levelled out to a pleasant military road (perceived by Gen.Wade but implemented by Gen. Caulfield in the mid eighteenth century) which took us all the way into our destination for the day at Bridge of Orchy. Fantastic views all the way, and as an old friend of mum's used to say 'there's not much sky in The Highlands', how right he was. Just a 7 mile hop today, slight slip in the planning but no great problem, and after waving off the gang we have had a quiet afternoon reading the Sunday papers.

In the absence of anything else noteworthy, Fran told us of her friend, who on finding her tumble dryer smoking from the rear, rang the fire brigade. She explained that she had unplugged it and all seemed to be OK but that she wanted some advice on what to do next. 'Oh,' said the fireman 'We don't give advice love, we just come' Five minutes later she had 2 fully staffed engines on the doorstep!

Over Rannoch Moor tomorrow - mum's read that it used to be inhabited by bears and is convinced that we are going to see some. She seems to have ignored the fact that there also used to be wolves! Hey ho.

Keep spreading the word.

M
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Sorry no pics again, fingers crossed for tomorrow!

Les midges est arrivee

Beinglas campsite, is a farm at the end of Loch Lomond, that has grasped opportunity with both hands. It has a caravan site, camp site, log cabins and bed and breakfast. Facilities are aimed at the transient walking population, including adequate, washing, laundry, and kitchen facilities. There is also a bar and restaurant with a large patio area that has a huge fire pit in the middle. It also has midges, by the million. They were so bad this morning, that the parents have invested in nets to put over their heads...you should see them! Of course, I just have to manage.

We were woken by two cuckoos dueting (or competing - not sure which) with great gusto. After all the talk of their dwindling population it was good to hear - even at 05.00am.

After a hearty breakfast of breakfast bap, orange, Burns and coffee we got underway. Today the WHW wends uphill for the morning on open moorland pasture, a fairly gentle incline for about 6 miles until we reached the junction that takes the path to Tyndrum (our destination) or Crianlarich where there would be a chance of coffee and an extra 2 miles .... We drank water.

The trail now turned to forest track with undulations. About 9 miles in we met a gamekeeper who had an ATV with a trailer load of deer carcasses. Mum said it was a shame but just another form of farming. He had lost the wheel on his trailer, so dad offered to help. The man refused, and afterwards it occurred to them that he may have been a poacher and they could have been guilty of perpetrating a crime - innocents abroad.

Well, we're in the Highlands now. And there are lots...of high lands I mean. Snow covered high lands!. There are huge hills everywhere. They seem a lot bigger on foot than they do from a speedy car seat, and are truly majestic. The weather has been kind to us again and we've been able to enjoy the walk and the magnificent views afforded. They can't get over how like Switzerland it is.

We are in Tyndrum tonight  staying in a wooden chalet.

Tonight, Fran is coming to whisk us off to Killin and tomorrow we're off to Bridge of Orchy.

Keep spreading the word.

M
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Today's pics - the things mum does for you!!!

Feral goat kid - very pleased with himself

You WILL fly !

Add caption

Just kidding

The Rowardennan, was good, even though it's a complete contradiction. The room was lovely, king size bed, flat screen TV, bathroom with bath (oh was she happy), laundry service, the biz. Only thing was, the light in the bathroom was on a timer - so there she was in a lovely Radox Bath (yes she's been saving it for just such an occasion) and it all went dark. By night 2 she'd figured out, that if she wafted the shower screen around, it put the light back on, which was good because dad was getting fed up of opening the bathroom door every 30 seconds!

Well, the cake never made it (Sal's on the case), but the flowers caught up with us yesterday. A lovely spray of freesia and gypsophila, see he does listen sometimes. Mum wrapped just one flower in a damp tissue and fastened it to her rucksack, but sadly, it didn't last long.

She started the day with a new lipsol, and puckered up for a kiss. Umm, says he, raspberry, cherry? No says mum, close, mint. Brings back memories of Stan Ogden kissing Hilda, oh that's nice says he, what is it? Hilda replies, woman Stanley, woman.

Mum and I can't believe it, but when we unpacked the box, we were 3 maps short. When he'd finished hyper-ventilating, we realised that it was intentional, because the WHW is so well signed. And so it proved to be the case ( don't worry he still had the satnav!).

Today's walk, of 14 miles, was nearly all through Queen Elizabeth Forest. The first half to Inversnaid was lovely. Forest tracks and a gentle gradient. After that it became a tad more challenging, with some fairly rough territory, and lots of ups and downs, but nonetheless very pleasant.

We keep harping on about the bluebells, but mum says she has never seen anything like these. They are everywhere and in volume - not seas, but oceans of bl.    F ue, and such an overpowering aroma.

Apparently, the forest is famous for deer, pine martens, and feral goats. Although we only saw plenty of signs from the first 2, we did get to see a feral goat kid.

Talking of kids, mum was enchanted by a dipper trying to teach her youngster to fly. She kept coming to him with a small fish and then flying away with it. She teased him several times, and we never did see him get it before we had to move on.

About halfway along we came across a Scottish family - mum dad and 2 kids.  The gaentleman said to us, this is Rob Roy's cave isn't it. We dutifully agreed, not having a clue. The lady, quietly advised that they knew nothing about RR, so dad, in his wisdom, thought he would tell them the story........until mum kicked his leg (is this the wacko game again I thought?) and suggested it maybe wasn't his place to tell the Scots their heritage.

We made  it to Beinglas in really good time. The tent is pitched, we've eaten to busting at the on-site restaurant and now we're going to go and chill.

Tyndrum tomorrow and visitors....yeh!

Keep spreading the word.

M
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Sorry no pics again
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Who's eaten all the cake

It's a mistery. A. Sal very kindly sent mum a cake for her birthday. Originally we thought she'd sent it to tonight's stop over, but no she says she definitely sent it to Drymen for last night. But it's not arrived. Where can it be? We are here in Rowardennan for two nights (rest day tomorrow, thank goodness), so I suppose it might follow on - hope so - there was a close examination of my chops - I was a bit hurt - I like cake, but prefer Burns.

I had a narrow escape last night. Apparently the B&B had a dog shower. Mum and dad thought it was a great idea. Thankfully, I was clean and dry, so I got out of it.

They had dinner at the Clachan Inn, reputedly, the oldest pub in Scotland, and very nice it was too.

The first 4 miles of today's walk was on road, so they decided to play the ABC game on trees and on breeds of cattle. At 09.20, when they finished that, mum invented a new game  called wacko. She told dad she had a new game he said what, he didn't understand it, she hit him, and he said O. Good game, no I think they're losing it.

After coffee at Balmaha, we walked along the shores of Loch Lomomd, usually on footpath, but occasionally, courting with the road. It has been a beautiful day, and the views have been spectacular. The loch on one side and majestic hills and forest on the other. The spring flowers are in full bloom, including some magnificen rhododendrons. We managed to get ahead of the pack, so have not seen too many people, enough to make it interesting. They're getting used to it!

We made good time to Rowardennan, and have a lovely room on the top floor with great views across the loch, and all mum's favourite creature comforts. Dad had a tic - mum had a fit - all OK now.

Rest day tomorrow - the usual sorting out of gear, that seems to take all day, but more than anything, we all need a good rest. Um um.

Keep spreading the word

M
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Sorry, no pics again - signal not strong enough, such a shame.

Assault and latterly

When we were in Melrose, you will recall that we met some lovely folks who were on a pilgrimage on St Cuthberts Way, to Lindisfarne. A lady called Laverne showed us a poem, which we asked her, in the blog, (somebody reads it then!) for the name and author of. Yesterday, not only did she send that information, but she also sent the whole poem verbatim. Thank you so much Laverne for taking the trouble. It just struck us as being so apposite. If you would like to read it it is called  'For the Traveller' by John O'Donohue.

Back on the disused railway track this morning. For the first 4 miles to Strathblane it was all neat and tidy and tarmacced, running alongside the Campsie Fells with lovely views.

We stopped to get some lunch from the Co-op and mum selected 2 sandwiches and cold drinks. When she got to the counter, the most pleasant young man said that that would be £6.65, but if she had 2 snacks as well, it would only be £6. She dutifully added 2 bags of crisps, paid her £6, but is still a it confused!

After that, dad, had obviously decided that, as it was mum's big birthday, he would check her ability and fitness by taking her on his own very special assault course. Still on the disused railway track, only this time it was disused! Fortunately, the time of year ensured that the growth wasn't too bad, although I notice that the shorts are back in the pack and the trousers are back out tonight - well there were a lot of nettles. After about a mile, we struck the mud flume. This was a serious of mud puzzles, with no escape, and lasted for about another mile. Then came the tree skelter. A series of broken branches and brushwood that had to be negotiated, under, over, and through. At one point mum was trying to pass under a branch, which kept lowering so that she couldn't get under it - then she realised she was leaning on it! Then came the the piece de resistance! Two entire, mature pine trees blocking the path, with no way round, under or over - the only way is through, he happily announced. Rucksacks off, fleeces over heads, and smash your way through. The pollen was incredible, and they were white over when they got through. I was alright, never touched me.

Shortly after we got through there we joined the West Highland Way. I was going to say thank goodness. However, you must appreciate, that for the last 10 weeks, we have hardly seen a soul, sometimes nobody, for days. Today, we have joined a popular route and with it, a lot of people, and we are going to have them with us certainly to Fort William, possibly to Inverness. My people are going to take some handling!

We have passed our first distillery (Glengoyne) and I was put in a burn for a drink of water nearby. I have been very happy this afternoon!

So, mum becomes a pensioner (obviously not State - that just keeps getting further away). She gains another year and loses .......a pedometer (again).

We overnight in Drymen, and off to Rowardennan tomorrow for our first full day on the WHW.

Mum says a huge thank you to all of you who have sent messages by all kinds of nefarious means. In the absence of cards it has been brilliant, because it has lasted all day long. Thank you.

Keep spreading the word

M
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Sorry no pics service tonight

Romans Return

Today was our 60th walking day (pure coincidence) in which we notched up 800 miles. It's unbelievable really and we are getting frighteningly near the end.

Well mum and I counted our walls too soon, for today we were back on the Antonine Wall and up for another history lesson. I've got to admit, the whole Roman episode has been fascinating, and it is testimony to their building ability, that so much of their work is still evident.

We've been back on the canal for most of the day, with a wonderful coffe stop at The Boathouse , a restaurant on the marina at Auchinstarry Canal Basin. Dad had a bacon sandwich and they both had coffee and it was like being on the Coast - quite surreal. Thanks so much to Brodie for his very generous contribution.

Onward we trotted, on the hottest day of our walk, wall to wall sunshine (wasn't forecast - not complaining). She found the shorts. Dad had hidden them in his hat, so when he got that out, they fell out. Actually, those pins aren't quite as lily-white as they were!

At Kirkintilloch, we stopped at a roadside cafe for a cold drink and a biting on. From there on to a disused railway track to wend our way to Lennoxtown, where we have found a jacuzzi bath complete with TV. Will we ever get her out?

Big day tomorrow, when we join the West Highland Way. Mum's been really looking forward to this. Drymen tomorrow night.

Keep spreading the word.

M
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The chicks have it

After our DIY breakfast at Aran House, we rejoined the towpath of the Union Canal to make for Falkirk. Along the way, mum got very excited, when she realised she could see the sea- yes, I know it was an estuary, and it was only a glimpse, but it made her happy so what can you say.

The weather has been perfect for walking, good cloud cover and a light breeze so not as hot as further south - dad has a new strategy with the shorts, he hides them!

Around about coffee time we came across a Tesco store and mum was despatched to see if she could purloin coffee and a bacon sandwich. The ladies in the cafeteria were very distressed because their machine had broken down. Mum explained the situation and before you could say John O Groats, the kettle was on, and coffee provided. They only had enough bacon for 1 sandwich so mum had sausage.  Many thanks to Linda for her donation and to her and her colleague for going beyond the line of duty.
Goodness it all tasted good.

Along the way we have met 2 couples and a single man doing JOGLE, including Neil and Tanya who started their journey in Cork and walked up through Ireland before crossing Scotland to JOG to start south - a trip that is going to be more than 1400 miles - wow!

We have seen no end of ducklings today, and a very special treat, a pair of swans with their 5 cygnets - delightful.

As we approached Falkirk we came to a tunnel. 620 metres long, it was built to maintain the canal on the same contour, because the local landlord did not want to be able to see the canal from his property! I saw a deer just across the canal and told mum who was able to get a snap of it.

Shortly after that we came to the Falkirk Wheel. Where the Union Canal joins the Forth and Clyde Canal, which is significantly lower than the Union. The wheel replaces a number of lochs to get boats from one to the other. It's a fascinating, yet simple theory, too complex to describe here - look it up.

There have been lots of people on the towpath today, including many cyclists. Cyclists, it you are reading this, please bear in mind that not everybody can hear you coming, specially if you don't ring your bell. Dad's been a bit grumpy today, and this hasn't helped the shining hour! Especially when he was asked where the Kelpies were, because apparently he looked as if he knew what he was doing. Don't ask me!?

His sense of humour returned shortly before we made base at Castlecary, when the Scottish cycling team approached us on the path. He said 'Yorkshire's that way' pointing in the opposite direction. They took it all on good heart. Thankfully!

Lennoxtown tomorrow

Keep spreading the word

M
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Linlithno!

Well the pizza arrived, and we almost got we wanted (dad forgot mum's tomatoes) and it was entirely edible. Too much of it, and they discussed putting it in the fridge to save for breakfast (like somebody else we know!) but decided porridge would be better for them. The planned family movie went a bit wrong when dad and I went to sleep (it's really funny because dad sings in tune in his sleep) but mum thoroughly enjoyed 'Saving Mr Banks' all on her own - peaceful apart from the vocal interruptions previously referred to.

We were privileged to meet 81 year old Tony Rathbone from Keswick, who is cycling LEJOG with his friend. What a trooper. He kindly asked if I would have my photograph taken with him (never let the truth get in the way of a good story).

Jean, who runs this immaculate site at Linwater, has continued to help us above and beyond and we really can't thank her enough for her support. She has some gorgeous sheep dog pups for sale, and mum was tempted, but dad said one wouldn't fit in her backpack - thank goodness for that, don't want to share my Burns with anybody else!

All day today we have been on the Union Canal. This is completely flat having been built on the same contour line and is known as the Mathematical River, for as well as being at the same height, it is also the same width and depth. Easy walking, but it doesn't half meander around?

The towpath was the subject of substantial renovation as part of a millennium project, so we wrongly assumed that we would be able to graze along the way. Failing that, Linlithgow was only 11 miles away. What we hadn't reckoned with, was that West Lothian Council have decreed that dogs are not allowed in any premises that serve food. This was a little bit awkward as it was raining, so even the pavement cafés were out.

So on to Aran House, 3 miles west of Linlithgow where we had arranged bed, breakfast and evening meal. We had had a call on Thursday night from the owner to tell us that she had messed up her holiday arrangements and would we mind having continental breakfast, or perhaps we would like to cancel. We had had particular difficulty booking for this evening, as the dog friendly welcome extends to B&Bs, so we said we would stay anyway. Last night mum realised she had booked dinner, so she rang back, to find that our landlady had left, and handed over to the farm manager. He assured us that we had a bed, but evening meal was off. Beginning not to like Linlithgow - even if it was the birthplace of Mary Queen of Scots.

We continue on the canals tomorrow.

Keep spreading the word.

M
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March to the lowlands

So we left you with jam less scones and re-conditioned mother (she wishes!)

The catalogue of mini disasters expanded when; dad got up out of his chair at the pub and took the arm with him, mum weighed herself for the first time since Easter and found no change, and dad lost the business end of his battery operated toothbrush.

Well every cloud has a silver lining - he was able to mend the chair without anyone noticing, mum has reflected the sun all day, we were able to get the last toothbrush in the co-op (although the original was later discovered at the bottom of the pack), the coffee time mars bars has been banned (profit warning), and hopefully if we walk a bit quicker some weight might be disposed of.

As you can see I started the day with a quick check over. We are staying on a campsite tonight, near to Ingliston Showground, where there is a major dog show going on - a girl has to look her best.

Well, guess what, we started with a hill. But a very different one. For some days now, the scaly heights we have reached have been green and pleasant meadow and pasture. Today we have moved back into more hardy territory, with heather moorland forming the vista. We reached the top just in time for a late coffee break, perched on some logs. When we resumed, we walked over the top to a whole new world. Before us lay the central lowlands, an almost flat area of ground, quite well populated and not a hill in sight for miles.

As we neared Edinburgh, we could see the Forth Rail Bridge in the distance. That was near enough, so we headed west for our destination. The Linwater Caravan Park. Our abode for the night, not a pod, but a timber tent. My word, how different to the pod at Bellingham. As well as a heater and lights,  has raised beds with mattresses, a fridge, a kettle, and electricity. The facilities are better than any we have experienced anywhere. And more than anything it has the wonderful Jean, who has been a guardian angel. Thank you Jean and thank you for your generous contribution.

Dad had a new experience tonight, he ordered a pizza - can't wait to see what arrives!

Keep spreading the word

M
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The drovers route

Bye bye to the Tontine who looked after us very well and even posted a picture of us on their Facebook page. The hotel is so called because it was financed by the Tontine principal - too complicated to explain here - google it - very interesting. Peebles is yet another Borders town oozing charm and fascinating architectural features, it really is a lovely region with some great walks

Today was no exception, and as usual, we climbed up hill, to join an old drovers route (some of it was very straight, were those pesky Romans involved?). It wasn't long before dad and I met a farmer and his dog on their ATV, and we struck up an interesting conversation all to do with sheep whilst we waited for mum who had been taking photos (again). A little later, we met the same farmer driving ewes and lambs between fields and we were able to help him (says dad!).

At night, dad spends a lot of time going over the next days route to make sure he can't find some dastardly way of making the mileage shorter. He does this whilst I dictate the blog to mum (you didn't really think I typed it did you? I accidentally on purpose lost the  contraption that they attached to my paw very early on!). So last night all was quiet whilst we got on with our jobs, when there was a cry of anguish. Dad has 58 Ordnance Survey maps for this trip, and for today's walk he was 2 miles shy of a complete trip. Of course, we still had the satnav, and the i pad, and the instructions from the Tourist Centre, but surely all sorts of things will go wrong to prevent us getting from A to B. As it happened this was the best marked route of the entire trip and it is a walk I would recommend to any walker. It's about 13 miles long, and undulates 150 - 200 meters all day long, with spectacular views and good going underfoot.

Mid-morning we met Bruce. Bruce is the nearest we have come to a fellow 'Ender' walking from the north to London. He had the smallest of backpacks and ma and pa were so envious they photographed his retreating form as he left us. Good luck Bruce.

Dad managed to purchase a new hat in Peebles, and I suspect he is lucky not to have had it confiscated (that's the polite version). It's just a cotton walking hat, but it has a zipped compartment that contains a flap to protect his neck, and he's done nothing but play with it all day. Well I suppose it has been a beautiful sunny day, there's a price to pay for everything.

When we got to West Linton we stopped at a cafe for tea and scones. Whilst we waited for them to arrive we witnessed a rare phenomenon - the cafe was next to a children's playground - and do you know what - it was full of children - playing - not an electrical device in sight! Anyway when tea arrived, dad said he had asked for jam but had been told they only came with butter. So they munched away and after finishing the scones, mum poured a second cup. She asked dad if he would like sugar (he doesn't always) and on taking the lid off the sugar pot - lo and behold - jam!

Our B&B is very comfortable, and includes - yeh - a bath. In she jumped Radox at the ready, and had a lovely soak. After which it's always nice to apply a good layering of moisturiser. So she dabs moisturiser in vast quantities all over the place. When she comes to rub it in - it's hair conditioner! Well she's nice and shiny and smooth all over now. Should've gone to Specsavers!

West Clinton tomorrow on 'the thieves route' and another pod in which to rest our weary limbs.

Keep spreading the word

M
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The Peebles - specially for my cousins

This morning, we left Melrose and the tender care of Jennifer at the Braidwood B&B, after 3 days of relative calm, and headed out for Peebles.

Last night, dad found 3 tics on me, which he duly removed. This is a bit of a worry because he doses me with some stuff that's supposed to deal with them for a month. When he read the instructions, he found that it can take up to 48 hours before they drop off. Out came the i pad, and on to the internet. So now, apparently I have this electronic device coming, that will go on my collar, and it will send pulses that will stop them coming anywhere near me. On top of that he has added to our nightly paw inspections, tic inspections. These are very very thorough and yet another invasion of my dignity. Mum wants to know if they will work on humans - I'll keep a very close eye on my device when it comes. In the meantime, it has proved an excellent way of persuading her to leave the shorts in the pack - result!

Dad was a bit giddy this morning, when Altberg called to say that they had re-soled his boots and they were winging their way home. The current pair aren't too bad, but you would think he'd won the lottery - which unfortunately, none of us did last night.

For most of this morning, we walked through forest, carpeted with bluebells, and the perfume was almost overwhelming. After a while they decided to play a game which mum invented, called 'If I had one of these I would......'

The idea is that an object is selected, and players take it in turns to say what they would do with it. It may be converted by amendment, using tools, but new materials may not be introduced. These two know how to live! Today's object was a pallet, and to make it tougher they decided the turns had to be alphabetical. Dad came up with some crackers, like; H for headache (when one lands on your head), mum went for glockenspiel until she realised she was going to end up with X and rapidly changed it to gate! Well.... It kept them quiet for 10 minutes, and it meant I could have a good old sniff round uninterrupted.

Mid-morning, dad lost his hat - heartbroken. He said he thought he could probably make do with a knotted handkerchief, and looked forlorn when he realised we only had tissues and that this solution might prove difficult.

Lunch on the high street in Innerleithen was interesting, and a tad noisy. But this afternoon we have been on an old railway track, easy walking and more wonderful views. The Tweed continues to produce charming offspring, and sightings included a heron, and best of all, a yellowhammer.

When we got to Peebles, we received a wonderful reception at the hotel, and were asked to pose on the steps for a photo for their Facebook page. The hotel is a proper hotel, which understands everything about service, and they couldn't do enough for us.

Tomorrow, we head for West Linton over an old drovers route - could be challenging.

Keep spreading the word

M
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Pilgrims progress

Melrose is a lively Borders town, complete with its own abbey and it marks the start point for the St Cuthberts Way. It oozes charm and has no end of lovely places to eat. The surrounding scenery isn't too bad either, with the Eildon Hills standing guard, and visible for miles around.

When we got here, once more, those wonderful people from Burns had sent my rations through, and I will have an abiding memory of mum sitting on the loo seat, dividing up days supplies.

At breakfast this morning, we were joined by 4 folk undertaking the St Cuthberts Way pilgrimage to Lindisfarne, and our grateful thanks to Tony, Laverne, and Shirley for their generous contribution to our charities. Laverne, I know I have probably spelt that wrong, but should you happen to log in, I would love the name and author of the poem you showed us - it was so very apt.

Once more we have encountered difficulties in finding me-friendly accommodation (humph) so tonight we are returning to Melrose. Dad did his usual; come on you two, let's go, bit. And had to return 4 times for things he had forgotten - me (can you believe that), my harness, my water bowl, and the satnav. More haste less speed methinks, but daren't say.

It was a beautiful morning, so much so that I regret to sy that mums shorts made it out of her pack again - a little crumpled maybe, but she insisted and we all donned our sunglasses to shield our eyes from the brilliant white.

We set off down the road, bypassing Abbotsford the former home of Sir Walter Scott. After a while the path ended with a barrier, due to the development of a new railway. Good old MP referred to his trusty map, and formulated a diversion that took us alongside the Tweed for most of the day. It was a wonderful walk, through sheep filled pastures, woodland and easy track.

At one point we were fortunate enough to see a Grebe, with her 5 chicks. Grebe chicks have a special trick of jumping on their mum's back if they are disturbed, a great sight.

I also had a very exciting moment when we came across 3 fire engines and their crews all kitted out in waterproof gear, preparing to practice rescuing people in the fast flowing Tweed. They asked if they could have their photo taken with me and I agreed.

All too soon, our days walk finished, and we had only a short wait for our taxi to scoop us up and take us back to lovely Melrose. A cup of tea and a piece of cake at a pavement cafe, and
then dad asked mum to get lost (in so many words) so that he could go and get her birthday card. There's nothing like a surprise!

Then it was time to take the tent down to the recreation ground, to put it up in order to dry it our after last week's torrential rain. With bright sunshine, and a gentle breeze, it took about 15 minutes - job done.

Tomorrow it's Peebles.

Keep spreading the word

M
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